Reisen und leben, Heft 24 / 1992

Hin und her, kreuz und quer: A German tour, spring 1992

by Siegfried Feller

At the end of December, 1991, I retired from my long-time position as Associate of Libraries for Collection Development at the University of Massachusetts (Amherst). Since 1975 I have made many tours to visit academic & research libraries in the (erstwhile) Federal Republic of Germany, and since 1981 I have been an honorary member of the Verein Deutscher Bibliothekare (VDB), whose annual conferences I have attended on a dozen previous occasions. I very much enjoy sightseeing (cities/towns as well as landscapes), German foods and wines, and above all, people: friends and colleagues, old and new. But in this account, I will emphasize aspects of the trip that might be of use/interest to the others planning to make extensive use of the German railway system.

Planning my spring trip began last October, when I volunteered to attend the Bibliothekartag in Bochum (June 5-9) as official representative of the American Library Association (ALA); my appointment was approved in January. At that time I mailed inquiries to about 50 friends to find out whose schedules would permit a visit during my travels. Even with several 'auf Reise' themselves, I was still unable to fit everyone into my "final" itinerary. An oval route took shape, in this sequence: Frankfurt, Wiesbaden, Stadtoldendorf, Berlin, Rostock, Lübeck, Malente, Kiel, Oldenburg (0), Münster, Essen, Siegen, Marburg, Paderborn, Bochum, Stuttgart/Echterdingen, Freiburg, Eschen (Liechtenstein), Heidelberg, Frankfurt. Departure was from Boston May 11, with return on June 26.

A few words about preparations. From my 1990 trip, I had retained 370 DM in banknotes and coins, + 300 DM travellers' checks; these were in my travel file in my "Germany billfold/coin purse" and/or my passport wallet. These went into my carry-on bag so that I could switch them with my US money in mid-flight. Also, as an inveterate postcard writer, I typed about 80 adhesive address labels - multiple copies to family members & office colleagues, plus 1 or 2 to each of 50 friends in various parts of the USA and Europe. These went into the folder with German stamps and Luftpost stickers left over from my last trip. Since all scheduled stops must be regarded as tentative until confirmed in person or by telephone, I prepared a detailed list of persons to call every day or so, and placed the list in an envelope with a partially used telephone card inside my appointment book. Photocopies are very useful in many ways. Both for my file at home and to carry with me, I placed copies of parts of my passport, my travellers' check receipts, airline tickets, German rail passes. For my 3 pieces of luggage, I made 2 plastic tags each, inside which I listed every other stop on my agenda, with dates, names/addresses/telephone numbers where I could be reached. Reduced photocopies of this schedule were also placed inside each bag and wallet, my passport, folders and notebooks. This may seem excessively precautionary, but a few years ago when my passport wallet was stolen, the bag inside made it possible for the Mannheim railway police to return everything (except the 450 DM) in time for me to use the railpass to travel from Stuttgart to Freiburg, and from Freiburg to Wiesbaden.

Since I enjoy sightseeing from trains and (especially) boats, I bought 2 first class German flexi-rail - passes, one for 5 days of travel within 30, the other for 15 days within 30. This is very convenient (no need to purchase tickets each time), and no supplemental payments on the luxury trains; it is more economical even than a Eurailpass, and it is even possible for an adult to buy a less expensive second-class German rail pass. Insufficient planning/information led me to squander about $100, because it turned out that 10 days would have covered my needs for the second pass if I had had the wit to pay Cash for very short trips (like Lübeck to Kiel) where the cost was less that average daily an the pass. Buyers of rail passes should note carefully the other advantages, such as reduced prices or even free passage on some boat trips and bus rides; these are alee listed in the brochures accompanying the passes.

My impression is that many more Germans are travelling in first class every year, so that trains have become more crowded. One reason is that generous discounts allow senior Citizens to pay the difference and to travel in greater comfort. On the many previous times that I have travelled alone with a first class rail pass, I have managed without ever making a reservation. On my Thursday trip from Frankfurt to Göttingen, I found all places occupied or reserved; examining the information printed an the orange slips I found a seat reserved from Göttingen to Hamburg, so I made myself comfortable without fear of being dislodged before arriving at my destination. This technique has been useful to me on numerous occasions. Generally it is only the IC (Intercity) routes with hourly service between major Cities that are so crowded. On holiday Weekends (when all southerners head for the northern Island and coastal resorts, and all Northerns head for the Alps and Black Forest) the Bundesbahn adds supplemental trains to the normal ones. Their schedules are prominently displayed in the stations, and may prove useful in providing alternative connections. Be sure to read all footnotes carefully (and/or ask for assistance) in interpreting schedules so that you do not (as I did in 1975) wait for the "last" train from Trier to Köln on a Saturday night, only to discover too late that it one only runs on Sundays/holidays. The D and E trains (Schnellzüge, and Eilzüge) are slower, stop more frequently (but what's my hurry after all?), and the 6-seat compartments (both Smoking and non-) are often empty. A drawback is that E trains usually do not have refreshments aboard. It has long been my practice to carry a small screw-top bottle of mineral water in my shoulder bag; this is also useful when sightseeing a foot as drinking fountains are here in Germany.

In some respects, the quality of the railway service has deteriorated in the last few years, despite some technical advances. Perhaps it is unfair to generalize from my two experiences (but confirmed by other travellers), that the quality and quantity of the food in the dining cars has deteriorated, while the prices have risen. And while it is convenient to be able to order and receive coffee (etc.) from the conductor, the prices are very high: a small mineral water (0,25 L) may cost 3,50 DM, whereas a 0.70 L bottle at a street kiosk may cost 1,30 DM, or a 0,50 L can may be 1 DM at a stand in the Station itself. Trains are more often behind schedule than formerly, and the lines at the information centres have gotten even longer, perhaps for lack of sufficient personnel. These information centres are now nearly all equipped with Computers, so that you can receive a nice printout with full details: times of departure/arrival for all Stops and the journey, type and number of train (and amenities offered, if any). You will still need to consult the Station schedule under the precise departure time to determine from which platform you will be leaving (and note that in larger stations, there may be more than one leaving at the same time). A caveat; the computer chooses what it regards as the most efficient schedule for you, and works on the (often false) assumption that all trains will arrive in time. If it's a question of one IC connecting with another on opposite sides of the same platform, either will wait plus/minus 20 minutes for the other; in any case, on these routes another connection can be made, usually within the hour. However, a 20-30 minute delay announced for my IC from Freiburg would have missed my east-bound connection via Eilzug von Basel Bad to Lindau. Luckily I had sought out an earlier train - also 25 minutes late, but still in plenty of time for an unhurried transfer. Had I not done so, my arrival in Feldkirch (via Lindau & Bregenz) would have been delayed by 2 hours. The point: examine the time on your computer schedule critically before leaving the window, and where connections seem tight, request an alternative timetable.

It is also possible to obtain information about future legs of your journey in case you need to advise your hosts of arrival times. In Bochum, I obtained schedules not only from Bochum to Stuttgart, but also from Stuttgart to Freiburg, and from Freiburg to Feldkirch, Austria.

The new wagons of the IR (Inter-regional) trains are attractive and comfortable, and they have understandably become popular. On the other hand, much of the rolling stock from the erstwhile Reichsbahn (GDR) is still in use, and is being replaced as funds permit. Over the years, many of the rural routes have been eliminated, but bus routes operated by the railway have been substituted so that public transport remains available; the rail pass is valid on these lines as well. Rail travel in Germany is not inexpensive, but the trains are necessary and can be used to good advantage by travellers who understand how the System works. With one large and 2 medium-size suitcases (and a 66-year old Body weighing 112 kg, 1,72 m) I found it helpful to reduce my load occasionally by sending my large bag ahead, from Lübeck to Essen, for example, taking only the smaller bags to Kiel. Until May 31, the cost from Station to Station was 9 DM, and to send it to a residential address or hotel costs extra; on June 1, the Base rate rose to 16 DM (regardless of distance). Allow a couple of days for delivery; even though the trains run every day, baggage handlers do not work afternoon on Saturdays, not on Sundays/ holidays.

An early visit to a main post office (usually very near the HBF in each City) can be very helpful for the trip. In Wiesbaden, I purchased stamps in denominations of 1 DM and 5 Pf (airmail rate for postcards to the USA - would you believe that after more than 2 years at this rate, the Bundespost has still not issued a stamp in the 1,05 denomination!), and 60 PF (for cards within the European community). Staff can offer a choice of designs in the denominations of your choice, in case you want to decorate your cards; they will also supply blue air mail Stickers on request. Since the Bundespost also operates the phone System, this is a good place to buy a telephone card (12 DM or 50 DM), which is much handier than fumbling with coins in the booths; after each call, the amount of credit still remaining is shown on a Small screen, and it is worth noting this for future reference. I also requested and got precise instructions on direct-dialing to Denmark, France and Liechtenstein, and updated my old area codes for eastern cities (whose numbers had changed since reunification). Later I found out that at the savings windows, they will cash travellers' checks without fees, whereas many/most bank & other establishments will; the Deutsche Bank in Frankfurt took 5 DM per check - unverschämt!!

Now, for some highlights of my tour. A private wine-tasting for a good friend of myself in the Rheingau was followed by a nice supper overlooking the Rhine. A first meeting in Stadtoldendorf with Alex and Ursula Hinrichsen, Compiler/publisher of the definitive Baedeker bibliography, and from whose antiquarian stock of older travel guides (which I collect) I made many selections; they also provided an auto-tour of their area, including Holzminden, Höxter, Fürstenberg (Porzellanmuseum), and Bad Karlshafen. On my last visit to Berlin (1989), I had not expected to live long enough to see the wall down, and I was delighted by the easy access now to all parts of this marvellous City! I managed a "Spreefahrt" on the canal System, and an excursion to Niederfinow to see a "ship elevator" (Schiffshebewerk) that lifts/lowers vessels 36 m so they can continue their voyage along the Oder-Havel waterway. My first visit to Rostock allowed me to admire the Hanseatic architecture (much renovations is needed) and to berate the terrible telephone Service when trying to reach the west; a harbour boat trip to Warnemünde was relaxing. I renewed my "love affair" with Lübeck which dates back to my first sabbatical leave, in 1975; I revisited the Holstentor, Rathaus steps, Schiffergesellschaft, and several churches and restaurants (try Oexle in the Dankwartsgrube for excellent Swabian fare). It was edifying on the boatride to Travemünde to see that the east shore was free of guards and barbed wire; a revisit to Malente on the Dieksee got me an invitation to a lunch in a friend's garden.

My stay in Kiel did not permit a voyage on the Nord-Ostsee Canal, but I did repeat a boat trip to Laboe; visit to the monument there will reward anyone with an interest in naval history, especially of World War 1 & II. The return to the City of my birth included a viewing of Essen cathedral's treasure-trove, and inspection of the wares offered at a huge flea-market in J F Kennedy Platz, and where 1 was able to buy a nice copy of Baedeker's 1930 Nordbayern at a reasonable price. My return to Oldenburg was as nice as expected, with a day-trip to Dangast on the Jadebusen, south of Wilhelmshaven across the bay. (Did you know that the North Sea dike extends from the Netherlands to Denmark, and is the longest man-made structure in the world after the Great Wall of China?) Münster was new to me, charming but confusing: on each of 4 trips to and from the university library, I managed to take more than one wrong turning. Siegen was also unfamiliar to me, but an auto-tour of the region and a long walk helped remedy this deficiency; Siegerland is attractively hilly, and one of the highlights was a fine supper (a Bauernpfanne - farmer's skillet) at a cozy country inn in Netphen. From Siegen, a day-trip to Marburg included an excellent lunch (try "Zur Sonne"), an exhibit on the antiquities of Hessen and Thüringen, followed by a tour of the castle ramparts atop the mountain (whose ascension had half-killed me) for a heavenly view of Marburg.

My Paderborn "family" entertained me over the Pfingsten Weekend before I continued to Bochum for the annual librarians' conference. I was delighted to be able to meet and talk with so many long-time friends, and some newer ones as well; there were even some interesting papers presented! Stuttgart is another hilly City, and the 30-minute bus-ride up to Echterdingen proved to be "thrilling" for those of us affected by steep heights. Freiburg is another familiar place, in part because UMass has long maintained an office at the University to coordinate our academic exchange program. The cathedral square (Münsterplatz) remains one of my favourite haunts, and I enjoy myself at several of the pubs/restaurants there, and bought a few more books at an outdoor stall. With many Stops and 3 transfers, it took a little over 6 hours through an attractive landscape from Freiburg to Feldkirch, where my Liechtenstein friends fetched me. This was my only foray outside Germany; the view of the Rhine Valley and the mountains from the guestroom balcony in Eschen remains awe-inspiring. I was also able to indulge my collecting interests for a few hours by perusing my friend's antiquarian stock of travel Literature - safely out of my reach, however, since these were part of a larger lot on offer to a library as a collection. In Frankfurt, I availed myself for several days of the hospitality of a friend in Liederbach/Ts, then switched for my last 2 days to a hotel near the university and the German Library. Half-day trips to Königstein and to Heidelberg were for conversations with friends, but I always enjoy the scenery along the train routes to both of these destinations. Many friends in Frankfurt too, of course, and many interesting architectural features, such as the Römerplatz, and the various old watch-towers. Many fine restaurants as well, especially near the Opera. On departure day, my young friend from Essen appeared at my hotel at 9.00 with my Baedeker suitcase (which they had stored to lighten my burden) and by 9.35 he had delivered me to the Flughafen departures entrance. I will not regale with a list of the usual aggravations that ensued - the long check-in lines, the heat and noise, the dreadful prices for refreshments are well-known to all who travel by air, in any country. By the time I had been X-rayed and fondled by various inspectors, added to the stress of a long trip, I was ready to resolve that I would never do this again! But (as previously) after a few months, the difficulties will have faded in my memory, and the charm of the cities and landscapes. The wish to revisit friends will remain strong. So long as I can still cope with my luggage.... (Auf Wiedersehen!).

Siegfried Feller: Hin und her, kreuz und quer
In "Reisen und leben" Heft 24, S. 11-16.
(Holzminden: Ursula Hinrichsen; 1992)
ISSN 0936-627X

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Eutiner Forschungsstelle zur historischen Reisekultur

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Baedeker-Imitationen

Reproduced by kind permission of Alex W. Hinrichsen. All copyrights acknowledged.